Determine Wii chip
If you do not know which version of the drive chip you have or if the pins are cut or not, use WiiTracker to get a good estimate. For my Wii its correct. I have GC2-D2B with pins still intact.
Tags: wii, driver chip
If you do not know which version of the drive chip you have or if the pins are cut or not, use WiiTracker to get a good estimate. For my Wii its correct. I have GC2-D2B with pins still intact.
Tags: wii, driver chip
Har funderat en hel del på om jag skall köpa en telezoom och Canons 70-200 linser har fått väldigt fina betyg, speciellt 4.0 linserna. Helst skulle jag vilja ha med bildstabilisering men det är rätt mycket dyrare. Tittade dock på fotosidan och på blocket och det finns rätt gott om just 70-200/4L linser, och några få med bild stabilisering. Man verkar kunna köpa de utan stabilisering från ca 4000 kr.
Så för jämförelse skull tittade jag på priserna på B&H photo and video i New York. De tar ca 560 dollar för 70-200/4l linsen. Så vad blir det här hemma i Sverige? Jo upptäckte att Tullverket har en trevlig kalkylator som hjälper dig att räkna ut kostnaden. Enda luriga var att hitta tullavgiften för kameraobjektiv. Tullens varukod för kameraobjektiv är 9002 och denna kategori var sedan uppdelad i flera beroende på brännvidd men alla har en tullsats på 6.7% vad jag kunde se. Så att importera en 70-200/4L skulle kosta ca 5100 kr vilket är bra mycket billigare än tex Cyberphotos 7000 kr. Importpriset för en med bildstabilisering blir ca 9100 kr. Ny pris i sverige lite över 11 000 kr.
After some struggling around I have now successfully created my first small program in HI-TIDE. I had missed I was looking into the pic1267x.h file when finding defs for my code. The program I tried to compile was the simple debouncer example from the PICkit FLash Starter Kit though it was not specifically written for the 12F675 which I have here. Thus I had to change some of the defs used, e.g. RA5 to GPIO5. I got help from the HI-TIDE Forum that I should look in pic12f6x.h instead which made it much easier to get it to compile:-)
Also solved the powersupply issue. Just take a 220V USB charger, gives a nice 5V with 500 mA!
Just listened to episode 270 of TipsFromTheTopFloor PodCast where Chris interviewed the guy behind CHDK. Interesting piece of software which enables a lot of interesting features in quite cheap cameras. Unfortunately my old PowerShot A70 isn’t supported.
Have been using the new SqueezeCenter(Slimserver 7.0) since Christmas but it has been a bit up and down… so tried to get it up again today and here are some useful links for next time:
Where to download it, here.
And howto set it up with an existing MySQL server is described here.
iPeng iPhone skin for SqueezeCenter is here.
Just stumbled upon PikaPika which looks quite cool. Wondered a bit how they have done it and according to their website its just stop motion. Here is an Instructable on how to do it, so some wire seems to help a lot!
17-20 april i år ordnar Storulvån och Sylarna Fjällfest. Det rycktas att även M.A.S.C, mountain and snowkite competition skall gå av stapeln då. Kanske man skulle satsa på att åka upp en sväng då.
Spent some more times on the new PIC project and found some useful stuff:
Mike Pearce Heater project over at MicroChips webiste is more or less what I intend, atleast when it comes to writing code! So Basically I just need to compile it and build the electronics, atleast for a first version.
And looking for a C compiler I found out that nowadays HTSoft have a free version of their PIC C Compiler. And best of all, it has no limitations for the 12F629 or 12%675 which I intend to use!
And ontop of all these great news I also found out that HTSoft now have an eclipse based IDE! HI-TIDE – HI-TECH Integrated Development Environment
Now I just need to get Mike’s code to compile with the PIC C compiler using the HI-TIDE.
The heating regulator in my espresso machine has given up. So either I buy a new machine for 4000 SEK or I try to fix it, the later is cheaper and more fun. The idea is to have one PIC control the heating so it needs a thermometer and a relay. Also one needs probably to be able to adjust the temperature which it should strive for and it would be nice to be able to see the actual temperature. Also I need to power the whole thing.
So this post will be updated once I progress with the project. The first task is to find 1-wire source code for the PIC, next to get it compiled. Then test it with a 1-wire device and write the code needed.
Just bought a Hama Slave unit “Synchromat” for my old flash because that flash does not work anymore with my DSLR. Even though the box says “DIGITAL” the slave unit does not really work with digital cameras. Let me explain:
Most cameras today fire of a pre-flash before the main flash to measure the scene. And typically what you do with a slave unit is that you chose to ignore the first flash and trigger on the second. Though the Hama slave unit does not do this. So the only way to get it to work is to pt your flash into manual mode(which will tell it not to measure the scene). Also noticed with the Canon flashes that they wont fire a pre-flash if the head is tilted upwards to bounce in the roof.