I use the calibration card to measure and cut the filament at 10 on the card, i.e 100mm plus the dead space before the 0. But since I measure the extruded distance also with this space it can be ignored.
Make sure the hot end has reached the correct temperature for the filament you are calibrating with. And issue the command to start feeding the 100mm of filament. Once that finished measure the amount of filament left.
I had 23mm left this time. Then it is time to do the calculation. I find it easiest to start the developer tools in the browser. In the console there I just enter the expressions in the article.
Then use the Luban console to enter the newly calculated value and permanently store it. If you want to understand the M-commands like M92 this page was good, https://snapmaker.github.io/Documentation/gcode/M092
Finally make a test run with the same command that feeds 100mm of filament. Mine fed a few mm of extra filament.
This time I ignored the difference but if you want you can re-calibrate. Use your calculated S value as the new E in the calculation and enter how much filament that has been fed. Repeat until you are satisfied.
I found the OpenMQTTGateway project and got really interested since it can open up for a lot of interesting integrations to Home Assistant. I bought a LilyGo to start experimenting and could get it to read 433Mhz devices like Nexa. All this is possible due to the RTL_433_ESP library.
I wanted also to be able to write to the devices since I have several power plugs that use Nexa. That is not possible with just the LilyGo and the radio module on it. With the STX882 it should be possible to transmit. So I bought both a STX882 and a SRX882. This page describes how to connect these to a ESP32 or NodeMCU.
Have not yet tried to make the full setup and connect everything. Will update this post once I have tried that.
I found Timbo’s tips on how to make a track from photos but it did not work straight out of the box for me. The problem was two fold; first I needed to change ” to ‘ but also gpsdatetime tag did not exists but changing to DateTimeOriginal made it work: exiftool -r -if '$DateTimeOriginal' -fileOrder DateTimeOriginal -p ./gpx.fmt ./*.jpg > track.gpx
But it also required me to to modify the gpx.fmt file.
There is a circuits diagram on the Maytech page which makes it easy to connect the remote receiver and the VESC together using the pinout picture on the MakerX page.
VESC App settings:
if you are using firmware version 5.03 (VESC TOOL 3.1) or above – turn off the phase filter, see here for more details
Set App to Use to UART – gives much quicker response than the Maytech recommended UART and PPM.
Use the Maytech recommended Control Type: Current No Reverse under VESC Remote
For quicker response on the remote, change the Input Deadband to something like 3% under VESC Remote
VESC Motor Settings:
Set Motor Current Max to 140A
Do not set Motor Current Max Brake to 0A but some negativa number like -1A
Set Absolute Maximum Current to 180A
Here are some screen dumps to better explain the settings
App to Use: UARTVESC Remote settingsMotor Settings
Started flying FPV in October 2020 but have since then blown a couple of ESC. And each time I’m going to setup the new ones I ran into problems so this time I write down some notes to not have that happen again…
The most common problem I run into is that I turn on Bi-directional DShot in BetaFlight but then I get RPM_FILTER Disarm disabled flag turned on!! And cannot figure out why??
The answer and solution is quite simple. The default ESC firmware does not support bidirectional DShot! And this article describes how to get it. The ESCs I have one need to use BLHeli_S firmware. On my Nazgul 5 2 HD the ESC has the G H 30 configuration and currently I’m using version 16.73. So I download the G_H_30_REV16_73.HEX firmware and use BLHeli Configuration to flash it. Other versions can be downloaded from https://github.com/JazzMaverick/BLHeli/tree/JazzMaverick-patch-1/BLHeli_S%20SiLabs
